Mole Enchiladas at Altamirano’s

Mole isn’t just magic because it means you get chocolate before dessert. No, its wizardry is in the mad mix of so many ingredients pulling together in a single effort to make your taste buds cheer. It could easily be a cacophony of taste done wrong, but Altamirano’s Mexican Grille (422 N. Milpas St., 882-1390) makes mole sing. It’s a complicated song, no doubt-is that ginger?-but perfectly harmonic, especially with the chicken that’s distinct, moist, and perfectly pulled. It’s $7.95 for two enchiladas, plus too much sour cream, some guacamole, and hearty refrieds and rice.