Lucky Duck

Duck confit—salt-curing duck legs and then slowly braising the meat in its own fat—started simply as a way to preserve food before refrigeration was widespread. Now, of course, this former peasant cleverness is served up by the chi-chi to the chic at usually cher prices. But not always. Café Luck (18 E. Cota St., 962-5393, cafelucksb.com) is plating a fine version for a mere $22. The duck is rich and succulent, and they don’t skimp on the portion for the solid price, either. A deep sauce adds richness, and that gets cut by the crunch of frisée. Even better, the plate features potato chips no doubt fried in duck fat to tie the meal in one fine fat-flavored bow. When in doubt, avail yourself of the Sazeracs they make, too, the classic New Orleans rye cocktail laced with just enough pastis to be fabulously French.