La Cantina Fills Mexican Niche in Noleta
Chris Chiarappa’s Latest Opening Serves Cocktails and Camarones Alongside Sports
For being so well served by Mexican restaurants from Carpinteria to far-west Goleta, the map of greater Santa Barbara was showing a rare gap in that saturation around the otherwise densely populated and bustling corner of Hollister and Turnpike. The closest one is Del Pueblo Café, about a mile to the west, and Palapa and El Rincon Bohemio sit more than two miles to the east. And all three of those serve traditional Mexican fare in homestyle settings.
Noticing that a couple years ago, Chris Chiarappa sensed an opening. This past September, the former medical device salesman-turned-very busy restaurateur decided to bring La Cantina to the Turnpike Shopping Center, just a couple doors down from where he opened a Lighthouse Coffee more than two years ago.
The extensive menu pairs traditional dishes like enchiladas, pozole, and fajitas with modernized takes, particularly on the salads and appetizers. More distinctive may be the ambiance, which is more sports bar than café, with a centralized bar, a long lineup of cocktails, and multiple TVs.
“It felt like there might be a little void,” said Chiarappa, who entered the restaurant business with Mesa Burger in 2017, since expanding that to another location as well as five Lighthouses and Corner Tap on the Mesa. “We wanted to do something that was in the Los Arroyos–Los Agaves range,” he explained, noting his respect for those restaurants, “But with our own twist to it.” To him, that means something fresher and more Californian, like their avocado and cauliflower tacos.
After Lighthouse earned quick success in the strip mall, Chiarappa and his partner Jim Weber originally planned to open a simple to-go taco shop where Jersey Mike’s now stands, with fast service aimed for to-go orders and the daily student crowds coming from San Marcos High across the street. But as the larger corner spot with huge covered patios sat vacant, said Chiarappa, “We wanted to do more, something a bit more broad than a walk-up window.”
La Cantina still checks the high school box, though, offering $7 burritos, $5 quesadillas, and $3 tacos from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. daily. They offer other discounts too, like Taco Tuesday’s sub-$5, all-day lineup and the $9 cocktails, $6 beers, and $6-$11 appetizers during the 3-5:30 p.m. happy hour everyday.
Cocktails are a critical part of La Cantina. “At Mexican restaurants, people drink with their meal,” said Chiarappa. They also help lure sports fans. “It’s not a sports bar,” assured Chiarappa, who ensured that La Cantina is welcoming to all ages and types. “It’s a restaurant and bar with TVs. The layout of the large bar, indoor seating, and two large heated patios is very accommodating to small or large groups.”
For the food, he consulted with a friend who’s opened multiple Mexican restaurants to find a good mix of standards and more creative dishes. Chef Adriel Colli runs the kitchen, and general manager Lizeth Dada handles the front of house. I’ve visited twice now, the first time running down quite a few dishes with my son but barely making a dent in the menu.
As I enjoyed a watermelon margarita called La Comarca, we decided that our favorite bites were the chile compadre, an Anaheim pepper stuffed with cheese and wrapped in bacon; the cochinita taco, which came with pickled onion and slices of habanero; and the enchiladas, particularly the one in a mole sauce. The molcajete was quite massive, its leftovers lasting many days; the taquitos were familiar treats, and good vehicles for the salsas; and the esquites were fine, though I preferred the corn-based dessert called pan de elote.
My second visit wasn’t as smooth, coming after the lunch rush with a friend of mine who lived in the Yucatan for many years. The service was a little sparse, and my guest had some issues with the authenticity of some dishes. But maybe we came at a bad time, and maybe he’s just cranky. My cauliflower tacos were tasty if a touch tiny, and the sopa tarasca was unique and satisfying, even if it took awhile to figure out if that was what I ordered.
“It takes a while to bring it all together,” said Chiarappa when we met in October, a fact he’s learned since opening to many restaurants in Santa Barbara over the past seven years. He’s certainly dedicated to the region, first coming in 1998 and returning to live here permanently in 2006. His wife, Cara Chiarappa, is a Santa Barbara High grad, and his kids graduated from our schools before going onto UCLA and LSU.
With that pedigree, it’s safe to say that Chiarappa and his team will continue to dial in La Cantina to fit what this corner of Noleta needs. “Our guest feedback has been that the broad menu is great, has something for everyone, and keeps you coming back for more,” said Chiarappa, explaining that his top sellers are the Enchiladas Balandra, Enchiladas La Paz, fajitas, and tacos. “Guests tell us daily that La Cantina has filled a big void in the neighborhood and that they are very happy to have us there.”
La Cantina, 199 S. Turnpike Rd. #105; (805) 869-2831; lacantinasb.com
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