Caruso’s ‘Land’ Menu Brings Environmental Awareness to the Table in Santa Barbara

'The Only Way to Achieve Greatness in Food Is to Respect the Environment, Animal Welfare, and Health'

By Rebecca Horrigan Thu Dec 19, 2024 | 04:30pm

A5 Matsusaka Wagyu Ribeye | celeriac, cone cabbage, walnut, Bartlett pears | Photo: Courtesy

“A restaurant and ultimately a chef have a great impact on the environment,” said Massimo Falsini, Executive Chef of Caruso’s at the Rosewood Miramar Beach. “From the energy used to cook food and light the restaurant, to the water used for cleaning and dishwashing, to the waste generated from food and packaging, not to mention the consequences from our purchasing decisions.” With Falsini at the helm, the Michelin Star and Michelin Green Star restaurant embodies this ethos not only in its beloved seafood tasting menu but in the new “Land” Chef’s Tasting Menu as well.

“Our commitment to sustainability is not just about creating delicious meals, but also about being responsible and mindful stewards of the planet and its resources,” Falsini said. The new Land Menu demonstrates how environmental awareness can be both compassionate and delectable. Walking out to a vibrant pink and tangerine sunset above the sea where Caruso’s resides, one can’t help but be knocked out by nature’s beauty. It’s the perfect reminder of why the Caruso’s staff keeps environmental preservation as a guiding force in all their decisions.

Even their wines and cocktails offer a strong nod to local agriculture. Under each name of the cocktail, the menu lists the farm where their notable ingredient comes from, such as the perfectly balanced “Chamomile” from Earthtrine Farm, a delightful blend of Ketel One vodka, Alma Finca orange liqueur, chamomile, vanilla, and prosecco. Santa Ynez Valley offerings like Stolpman’s earthy syrah and Crown Point’s dazzling 2014 cabernet sauvignon from Happy Canyon provide the perfect pairing with which to sink into the decadent meat- and pasta-forward menu.

Hand-Pulled Burrata | Variation of Persimmon, Walnut, Hoshigaki | Photo: Courtesy

“There is really nothing in the menu that is not locally sourced or comes from our farm,” Falsini said. “At Caruso’s, we are in symbiosis with the ocean and the landscape. No one in the team ever thinks of flying in fish or other ingredients or using something out of season. It is about mindset.”

This seasonal mentality sings from start to finish in the eight-course symphony of flavors. Upon arrival, you are greeted with five fun and fresh welcome bites, including a show-stopping crab roll. It was a delight to get a little splash from the sea before emerging on the Land menu with the official first course, La Zucca Si Transforma, a honeynut squash vellutata featuring hazelnut and orange crème fraîche.

The attention to detail is not just evident in the menu but in the seamless and spirited service. Our server Brendan struck the ideal balance of professional, warm, and knowledgeable — someone we’d love to pull up a chair right beside us. The team works together like a synchronous ballet, performing little touches like shaving truffles or pouring soup tableside, pulling out chairs, sharing anecdotes about the farms, and providing personal guidance from the sommelier to help steer our wine selections. The staff had us feeling not only like royalty, but like friends. As we sat in awe of the melt in your mouth A5 Matsusaka Wagyu Ribeye, surrounded on the plate by celeriac, cone cabbage, walnuts, and Bartlett pears, like an artist’s palette brimming with delicious color, two servers came out simultaneously to pour our glasses of cabernet in unison, the rich, ruby juice streaming down in gorgeous duplicity.

This grace infuses each dish as well. The Filet of Tartare with crème fraîche, horseradish, and capers, features grass-fed beef from Richards Regenerative Farms in Oregon House, California. The purveyor is a perfect example of Caruso’s focus on sourcing from farms that use regenerative farming techniques to help restore grasslands, improve soil health, and fight climate change by sequestering carbon.

“The only way to achieve greatness in food is to respect the environment, animal welfare, and health,” Falsini said. “Locally sourced food is fresher and more flavorful because it is harvested at the peak of ripeness and travels a shorter distance to reach the restaurant. This means that the food is more nutritious and delicious.”

Richards Regenerative Filet Tartare | *crème fraîche*, horseradish, capers | Photo: Courtesy

While the emphasis on local sourcing is clear, there’s also a strong nod to Falsini’s Italian roots. The handmade pastas taste as if they were made in a nonna’s kitchen but are given a Rosewood reinvention. For example, La Carbona a Modo Mio has this message on the menu, “I grew up in Trastevere, so you should try this carbonara,” and features tender pasta purses packed with a burst of flavor from house-cured guanciale and a decadent Lavender Lady Yolk draped across the top.

While their commitment to sustainability and excellence is serious, there’s an inspiring playfulness as well that keeps the diner learning. For example, I’d never heard of a “pre-dessert” but their zippy palate cleanser of granita, passion fruit, caviar and crème fraîche, is exactly the bright burst of flavor I’d want before any transition.

The actual desserts change seasonally, and we were most impressed with the cheese cart option. A charming array of California stunners, such as Petaluma’s Wagon Wheel, are served with various nuts and spreads. Although I was bursting at the seams, this lovely offering made me feel like starting the night all over again. It also had me reeling with gratitude for the abundance of incredible farmers and chefs making magic every day on the Central Coast, paving a path for longevity, ingredient by ingredient.

“By adopting sustainable practices, a restaurant can reduce its environmental impact and contribute to a more sustainable future,” Falsini said. Whether you’re a seafood fiend or a land-lover, this is something we can all raise a glass to.

For more information, see rosewoodhotels.com/en/miramar-beach-montecito/dining/carusos.