Full Belly Files | Let’s Find a Home for the Rare Fruit Man

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This past summer, I drove up to the top of San Marcos Pass to taste fruits that I didn’t know existed, identified by combinations of letters just as exotic as their shapes and flavors — itangatuba, guabiju, and guazumifolia, to name a few.

This past Tuesday, I went back to try one specific fruit that grows right on the trunk of its tree: the jabuticaba, a dark purple, nearly black orb, the near-perfectly circular size of a massive grape. Wrapped in a tannic, lightly tart, and somewhat floral skin, the sweet, juicy, slightly tropical interior flesh surrounds a stubbornly gelatinous seed covering. Taken all at once — the bark-clinging balls; the complex pairing of sweet and sour and floral; the balancing act of varying textures — the jabuticaba (or jaboticaba, if you please) just may be the most interesting fruit I’ve ever tasted.

But Tuesday’s mission to see Santa Barbara’s rare fruit tree man Kevin Reimer — who I wrote about here, and here, and even mentioned here — wasn’t all about tasty things. As we wandered through the maze of trees sampling other ripe species, including his beloved cherry of the Rio Grande, Kevin told me that he was getting the boot from the rented home whose yard he’s cultivated for the past 10 years. The second-generation owner is buying a home elsewhere, and he’s now scrambling to find a place for himself, for his girlfriend who is a nurse, and for their hillside-worth of rare fruit trees that must be the most interesting edible garden in town.

Kevin did put an offer in on the property where he lives, but what he can afford is a bit short of the asking price. Being acutely aware of the mountaintop property’s existing concerns and future challenges, he’s cautious to pay too much, knowing the work that’s likely to be needed down the road. And committing to live even longer in a high fire zone atop the region’s most dangerous road is enough to give everyone pause.

I asked him if I could write about his plight and, given that he hasn’t found the right option yet, Kevin obliged. He needs a place with ample land, but also a solid flow of well water, and it has to be temperate enough to keep the plants alive. The Santa Ynez Valley, for instance, with its frequent winter frosts, won’t work.

He’s had some potential opportunities arise with fruit-interested property owners in Hollister Ranch and Hope Ranch, and had near misses on Mountain Road and Mission Canyon. It’s still possible one of those may work out. The ideal situation would be a landowner seeking to use Kevin’s services on their own fruit trees, or perhaps wanting to start a fascinating orchard of their own, whether that’s coffee trees or sapote, guava or fig. (We tasted a bunch of the latter fruit on Tuesday, and they were wildly distinct and delicious.)

Given how many large properties exist on the South Coast, it doesn’t seem impossible that a little word-of-mouth magic might help find a home for this rare fruit wizard. Perhaps that will be at your friend’s mountain pad that needs some TLC, or just in one of those pool homes behind a Montecito mansion that wouldn’t mind a steadier presence on the property — and cool plants, of course.  

In the meantime, Reimer is also recovering from breaking his foot. I guessed that was due to downhill skateboarding, the sport in which he was a world champion and what initially led him to the top of the mountains. But it was just a freak accident that occurred while down the outside steps of his current home.

That happened right after my September article came out, which had led to a number of calls for his services that he had to cancel or reschedule because he couldn’t walk. Clearly, it hasn’t been the easiest few months since I met Kevin, but maybe we can do our part to make sure that Santa Barbara’s rare fruit man keeps up his sweet work.

If you can help, contact Kevin Reimer via the email, phone, or form listed on his website.

Olio e Limone Turns 25!

One of the finest Italian establishments ever to call Santa Barbara home, Olio e Limone is celebrating its 25-year anniversary this year. I was a young cub reporter working in the Independent’s offices upstairs at Victoria Court when Olio took over a downstairs address, and I watched as Santa Barbara’s epicureans, business lunchers, and other assorted well-dressed folks began clamoring for seats at the white-tableclothed tables.

It took me a few years of self-polishing and palate-elevating to dine there myself. But I quickly became a fan, eating with dignitary-friends like Roger Durling and enjoying winemaker lunches, both intimate ones with vintners like John Falcone and larger group tastings featuring wines from across Italy.

I’ve been an even more frequent visitor over the years to the casually inclined Olio Pizzeria and Olio Bottega (here was my 2021 intro to that sandwich & supplies spot).

I’ve also written about the Italian-sushi-minded Crudo Bar (back in 2014) and the short-lived, but Sicilian-super Bedda Mia on State Street (in 2022). But enough about me.

To celebrate Olio e Limone, they’re hosting a giveaway deal through their Instagram page that is selecting one random winner each week for those who like and comment on their posts. All of the details are here.

Felice anniversario! (I hope Google Translate got that one right.)

From Our Table

Here are some of our food & drink stories you may have missed from the past couple weeks:

• After 36 years of keeping Carpinteria sweet, Robitaille’s Fine Candies announced that they’ll be closing this December, reports Ryan Cruz.
• In the wake of the presidential election, Crushcakes pledged to remain a safe space for all people, which fired up the ire of those who apparently don’t like all people. Stephanie Gerson has the story.
• San Ysidro Ranch’s legendary cellar opened its doors and put a Central Coast spin on things for my colleague Leslie Dinaberg.
• I wrote my story about Kristin Harris Luis and Nick Luis from Cote of Paint wines. TLDR: Pours & Scores coming back again in December!
• This isn’t about food, but it’s about something else close to my heart: the Channel Islands. I interviewed photographer Justin Fantl about his new book Santa Rosae.