A Special Spot in the Heart of Montecito

While fonda fina may translate to “little restaurant” in Spanish, and the space, nestled in the Montecito Country Mart, is, in fact, not large, the bold flavors, stunning dishes, and vibrant energy in this haven for coastal Baja cuisine are anything but small.

“It’s been a long time coming,” said Chef Ramon Velazquez of his more-than-eight-year plan to add Alma Fonda Fina to his Rolodex of award-winning spots. In fact, Alma was one of his first ideas. Velazquez’s Corazón Cocina, the beloved taco stalwart of the Santa Barbara Public Market, was initially planned to be Alma, a more upscale Baja-inspired restaurant. However, they opted to cater toward a larger audience, and won a Michelin Bib Gourmand Award while they were at it.

“It gave us time to rein in our thoughts and our idea of the restaurant,” Velazquez explained. “The menu is completely different from Corazón, Comedor, and Beast. The menu is its own thing.”

The uniqueness of this place is apparent from the moment you walk in. The magenta-hued walls, colorful lanterns, wooden chairs, and welcoming smiles immediately whisked me away to the beaches of Puerto Vallarta despite the gray fall weather of my visit.

“The idea of this food is for you to be transported to a vacation in Mexico, having a ceviche or something really refreshing,” Velazquez said.

And that’s exactly what we did. Starting with the Ceviche Cuixmala, a bowl of beautiful local halibut soaking in a yellow broth of coconut aguachile and buzzing with grapefruit and passionfruit drizzles.

Cuixmala, a little vacation spot in Mexico, south of Puerto Vallarta, holds a special place in Montecito Country Mart landlord Jim Rosenfield’s heart. His fond memories inspire much of the restaurant’s bright decor and menu items.

“He’s a visionary. When he wants something there, he gets it,” Velazquez explained of Rosenfield’s commitment to carrying out his ideas for the center in full. In terms of visionaries, it takes one to know one. Velazquez steadfastly waited out a slew of slow starts for the restaurant, including the pandemic, permitting, applications, construction, and more, in order for Alma to come to life.

“We were patient and did not allow the uncertainty of when to open hold us back,” Velazquez said.

I know I’m not the only one who is grateful they persisted. This special hub certainly sets itself apart from any restaurant I’ve visited in Santa Barbara.

“I know people in Montecito are people that eat out and are well-traveled, and they eat at really good Mexican restaurants, so I thought, ‘Why not give them a restaurant they can call their own without going to Los Cabos or Mexico City,’” Velazquez said.

[Click to enlarge] A peek out the window from Alma Fonda Fina (left) and its current menu | Photo: Ingrid Bostrom

The Guadalajara-raised chef has been bringing authentic flavors to Santa Barbara since he immigrated here from Mexico in 1990. In addition to Corazón Cocina, he currently runs the more casual Beast Taqueria located within M. Special and the homestyle Corazón Comedor. However, one of his earliest gigs was working as the sushi chef for the sashimi darling of downtown, Arigato.

His precision and impeccable training there is evident in all of his preparations, but especially in what may have been my favorite bite of the night, the tuna tostada. Thick, buttery local albacore is layered upon a large tortilla chip complete with Morita mayonnaise, leeks, avocado, and ponzu salsa macha. It’s the perfect primer to pique the appetite for an evening of incredible fare, and I had to hold myself back from ordering a few more rounds.

The integrity of each dish is maintained by Velazquez’s excellent team.

“I found someone to cook for me who’s a really good chef. We cooked together here and in Mexico,” Velazquez said of his Chef De Cuisine Alan Alva, whose precise hand is evident in every bite. 

Velazquez’s son Brandon is managing the restaurant, Andres Velasquo is the Operations Manager, and Austin Graham, who formerly worked as a bartender in acclaimed Los Angeles hotspots like Bestia, is managing the bar.

“Without my team, Chef Alan, Andres, Brandon, Austin, I wouldn’t be able to do this,” Velazquez emphatically restated throughout our interview.

The team has created a selection of beverages that will certainly fly you off to a tropical vacation if the decor and food doesn’t.

“Alan and I have been to Valle de Guadalupe, and Austin did a lot of research on local wine,” Velazquez said.

It’s a bold move but a tasty one, presenting a wine list in Montecito that sings mainly of Valle de Guadalupe. Their selection is an eye-opener that I readily welcomed, pairing my bites with a crisp sip of pét-nat from Vinícola in Valle de Guadalupe.

Although they do not have a full liquor license yet, that does not stop Graham, a wizard of bartending and a congenial host to boot, from whipping up dazzling and delicious creations. Take, for instance, my favorite cocktail, the Agualmente, a smooth and verdant green concoction of Sabe Blanco, avocado, tomatillo, lime, and chili ash. If you’re looking for another playful sipper, the Lavanderia, consisting of Sabe Vodka, peach, yuzu, pink peppercorn, honey, and lavender bubbles, tastes as perky as it looks.

The attention to detail in drinks aligns neatly with Chef Velazquez’s desire to get the best ingredients, down to the corn in their homemade tortillas.

“We use non-GMO corn from Oaxaca and Nicholas, so we’re really excited and proud that no one has this corn in town,” Velazquez said.

Craft cocktail by Bar Manager, Austin Graham | Credit: Ingrid Bostrom

Served piping-hot alongside must-order dishes like the Ribeye Chicharrón, an indulgent amalgamation of queso fundido, chorizo, and pasilla, or under the show-stopping Tacos Suadero, complete with melt-in-your-mouth Wagyu brisket, potato, and chorizo mayo, the humble tortilla is a key player in this edible symphony.

Velazquez proves again and again that it’s the little additions that make a big impact. He’s meticulous about his ingredients, frequenting the farmers’ market weekly for the freshest produce. S.B. Fish Market and Starfish, a sustainable seafood company out of L.A., which gets their fish straight from Baja, are his primary sources for seafood.

It’s not always top-of-mind to order a salad at a Mexican restaurant, but their Endive Salad is not to be missed. A refreshing combination of brown-butter salsa macha, avocado, queso seco, and sherry vinaigrette, the dish is a lovely example of Velazquez’s flexibility as a chef and farmers’ market mentality.

“When people buy a carrot taco, they’re supporting not only my family but the farmer’s family as well,” said Velazquez.

Main dishes include options like Branzino a la Talla and Enchiladas Alma, but Velazquez is right when he shares, “You really can’t go wrong with anything on the menu.”

What they serve seasonally will reflect the myriad talents and ever-expanding viewpoint of Velazquez with a desire to please his diners. “It’s really about the people,” Velazquez said. “We’re opening our little home to them with great refined food.”

While the restaurant may not feel particularly tiny in concept, the “Alma” part of the name, the “soul,” carries through in every bite.

Alma Fonda Fina, 1024 Coast Village Road, Suite A, Montecito; (805) 869-6477; almamontecito.com.