“As a chef, you can design everything you want into a restaurant,” the owner of Little Bird Kitchen (LBK), Josh Brown, told me of his recently opened casual Californian spot at the Public Market.
Cheeseburgers, corn dogs, milkshakes, and onion rings might not be what you’d expect of the first business owned outright from the former chef at bouchon and chef and partner at Intermezzo. However, Brown elevates these crowd-pleasing favorites with his signature attention to detail and obsession with quality.
“Even in a fast-casual concept, you can still cook with passion and consideration for what you’re giving your guests,” Brown explained.
This is evident in nearly every item on the menu. Take, for example, the exceptional fried chicken sandwich. He sources premium Mary’s Free-Range Chicken and fries it in buttermilk with a Dixie fry breading he’s been using since he was a kid. House-made sweet pickle chips (a snack he had created for the charcuterie board at Intermezzo) are stacked on top with plenty of addictive LBK sauce. Nestled between a Martin’s Potato Roll toasted with clarified butter, this hefty sandwich is a filling and flavorful deal in a town that can be saturated in small plates at high prices.
“I created the menu to reach a broad number of the guests coming into the Public Market at any given day,” Brown explained of the multi-faceted options. For those looking for something a little lighter, there are four bountiful salads served in classic wooden bowls that I certainly remember my mom using growing up. It’s this mix of nostalgia and sophistication of ingredients and technique that makes Little Bird feel at once familiar yet exciting.
“The Caesar salad is something I’m known for and always proud of,” Brown said. Roots Farms Little Gems are mixed in a bright garlic and anchovy dressing and tossed with homemade croutons and parmesan. This was my favorite of the salads, but with Brown’s commitment to sourcing as much as he can from farmers’ markets and his selection of handmade dressings, you really can’t go wrong.
The mixed lettuces with roasted beets, toasted pepitas, orange slices, and shredded carrots doused in a delightful poppyseed dressing recalled family dinners of my childhood.
“It’s something your mom would have made for every summer salad,” Brown said. With one bite, I was taken back to a warm July evening and my mom’s strawberry salad; I could almost hear the blender whipping up that classic poppyseed dressing. However, Brown’s gourmet background can’t help but show — not only in the local produce, but in the artful swipe across the bowl of whipped goat cheese, which adds a lovely note of cool, savory balance to the dish. Grilled marinated chicken breast or Scottish salmon can be added to any of the salads for any added boost of protein.
Brown’s 27 years of experience as a chef and 30 years in Santa Barbara give him a keen read on the pulse of what local diners want.
“I knew that there was a demographic in the market that would want things outside of a full meal,” Brown said. So, while there are certainly satisfying sandwiches and salads, Brown also offers a selection of tasty shareables for those looking for a snack while watching the game.
The mouthwatering LBK roasted Blue Point oysters stuffed with spinach, butter, parmesan, and persillade crumbs and topped with warm hollandaise and scallion provide a perfect pairing with a Margerum rosé or hand-shaken margarita from Cooney’s Bar at the Public Market. The LBK Crispy Fried Chicken Wings served with crudité and blue-cheese ranch make a welcome companion to the more than 30 craft beers on tap at Cooney’s. The two Public Market outposts will be partnering up for Happy Hour coming soon at Cooney’s with a draft beer and an LBK Burger deal for only $15 from 3-5 p.m.
If you’re looking for a nonalcoholic beverage, Little Bird has you covered with their selection of hard-to-find, refreshing, and vintage sodas.
“I work with a soda somm out of L.A.,” Brown said. Their friendly fridge beckons with exciting options such as cane sugar Coca-Cola or Big Red, and the list changes all the time.
With two children and a wife who works at Cottage Hospital, Brown created the restaurant in part because it would allow him more time with his family. The restaurant is even named after his daughter, Piper Wren. Brown’s love for family is evident in the approachable menu and the quality that goes into it.
Their LBK burger uses heritage chuck Angus that they grind the day before. “It’s a huge effort, but the delivery of that is a wholesome and much higher quality product,” he says. There’s also a kid’s menu full of friendly options such as grilled cheese and chicken tenders.
Whether you’re opting for a lighter lunch or dinner with a kale salad or reveling in the nostalgia of a Nathan’s jumbo corn dog and fries, do not sleep on the milkshakes. I’ve tried both options multiple times, and I cannot choose a favorite. The Chocolate Malted features a rich mix of Dutchman’s Chocolate, malt powder, and malt ball crunch, and the Vanilla Coconut’s combination of vanilla bean ice cream, local honey, coconut oil, and toasted coconut is an ethereal concoction of flavors and textures that is sure to put a smile on your face.
With only a month under its belt, the warm, efficient, and consistent service at Little Bird is laudable, and also makes sense given the fact that Brown’s management team and sous chef came with him from Intermezzo.
“The three of us are working toward a large goal with this concept,” Brown explained. Judging by the mix of young professionals grabbing a quick and healthy lunch, sports fans sharing savory snacks, and families enjoying the quality and simplicity of fries and a burger, Brown’s goals are right on track.
Little Bird Kitchen is open daily, 11 a.m.-9 p.m., at the Santa Barbara Public Market (38 W. Victoria St.). Online ordering is also available. See littlebirdsb.com for more information.
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