On a lovely evening last week, beneath the stars, I found myself in the heart of Sta. Rita Hills, embracing the enchanting confluence of wine, cuisine, and camaraderie. As a Santa Barbara wine writer, events like these are my perfect pour — delighting in the experience, and eager to recount the tales to an audience equally captivated by our regional wines. This particular occasion was the La Paulée Dinner, a delightful homage to the legendary winemakers Frank Ostini and Gray Hartley of Hitching Post Wines which took place on Friday, August 16. Mirroring the jubilant spirit of Burgundy’s La Paulée de Meursault, this event masterfully blended Old-World elegance with the relaxed hospitality that defines California’s wine culture.
Nestled among rolling hills kissed by cool coastal breezes, Sta. Rita Hills is a haven for wine aficionados. Dominated by the cultivation of chardonnay and pinot noir, the region owes much of its renown to pioneers like Ostini and Hartley. These trailblazers have not only put Sta. Rita Hills on the map, but have also crafted wines that encapsulate the spirit of this distinctive terroir.
The evening kicked off with a burst of excitement at Babcock Winery & Vineyards, where host Bryan Babcock set the stage with a lively sparkling wine reception. In a show of flair, he disgorged some bubbly right on-site, thrilling guests with a playful spray of the freshly released wine. The air buzzed with cheers as glasses clinked, and winemakers from across Sta. Rita Hills shared their own effervescent creations, toasting to the winemakers of the year.
High on the Hog, the culinary wizards of the night, wowed everyone with a BBQ buffet that was nothing short of delicious. From savory tri-tip and tender pork to hearty BBQ beans, Caesar salad, and yellow rice, the spread was a feast for the senses. And for those of us not keen on meat, the Záatar roasted carrot salad with lemon hummus added a delightful surprise, ensuring that every palate was pleased and every taste bud tantalized.
But it wasn’t just about the food and wine — it was about the stories and the sense of community. Frank and Gray’s journey began back in the late 1970s when their passion for winemaking brought them together. From crafting their first bottles in a garage to creating wines that would later be celebrated worldwide, their story is one of friendship, dedication, and a shared love for the craft.
Guests enjoy the La Paulée Dinner on August 17, 2024, with food provided by High on the Hog catering | Photo: Jamie Knee
To honor these two legends, a veritable who’s who of the Sta. Rita Hills wine making community gathered. Original Sta. Rita Hills producers like Richard Sanford, Babcock, Rick Longoria, Doug Margerum, Norm Yost, Greg Brewer, and many others all brought their finest wines to the celebration, each a testament to the incredible talent that has flourished in this region.
The night was a true reflection of the collaborative spirit that defines Sta. Rita Hills. The winemakers, many of whom have known each other for decades, shared stories and memories that highlighted the deep bonds formed over years of working side by side. It was a celebration not just of Frank and Gray, but of an entire community that has helped elevate Sta. Rita Hills to international acclaim.
Of course, no conversation about Sta. Rita Hills would be complete without mentioning the film Sideways. Celebrating its 20th anniversary, this cult classic did more than entertain — it introduced the world to the wonders of Sta. Rita Hills and, notably, to Hitching Post Wines. While the film famously disparaged merlot, it undoubtedly cast a well-deserved spotlight on the region and its remarkable pinot noirs.
So, here’s to Sta. Rita Hills, to the winemakers who pour their hearts into every bottle, and to the magic that unfolds when great wine, good food, and wonderful friends converge. A toast to Frank and Gray — two legends whose inspiration resonates through each vineyard and vintage. They’ve crafted more than just wine; they’ve woven a legacy that will be savored and celebrated for generations to come. Cheers to many more years of extraordinary winemaking!
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