Beast Taqueria Brings out the Beauty
Fusing Mexican Favorites with American Comfort Food and Santa Barbara Beer
“Beast can be many things,” Chef Ramon Velazquez said of his new eatery tucked into M. Special Brewery.
These words could ring true for Velazquez as well. The talented chef has spread his reach wide with recent expansions from the flagship Santa Barbara Public Market’s Corazón Cocina, to the homestyle Mexican outpost on Victoria, Corazón Comedor, and the eagerly awaited spot in the Montecito Country Mart, Alma Fonda Fina.
Thankfully, although he’s broadened out with Beast Taqueria, his flavors remain finely tuned. Corn and flour tortillas are still homemade, and it’s the fresh and satisfying food we’ve come to know from Velazquez, with a playful nudge toward party fare. With options like the Esquites(Mexican street corn), Nachos, a chorizo and jalapeno topped Beast Burger, and Tuetano (bone marrow) that can be added to anything, these options hold their own next to the hops in M. Special’s frosty selections.
“We wanted it to be bold and fun and for the tacos to be larger than life,” Velazquez said. One of their most popular tacos is the quesabirria. Consisting of two beautiful blue corn tortillas loaded with cheese, birria, onions, cilantro, salsa macha, beans, and a comforting consomé on the side, Velazquez’s attention to detail sets these tacos apart from competitors.
“We want to go the extra mile,” Velazquez said.
This is not the Guadalajara-raised chef’s first rodeo pairing up with a brewery. Velazquez learned from his past experience at The Project (now closed), where his selections were served alongside brews from Captain Fatty’s.
“We’re always about collaborating with locals,” Velazquez explained. He loved the beer at M. Special and when restaurateur and friend Chris Chiarappa asked him if he’d be up for taking over the brewery’s kitchen, he jumped at the chance.
“The space itself is a great place for people to come and do great things,” Velazquez explained, nodding to the large and sunny patio. It’s the ideal canvas for a party with opportunities for DJ sets paired with Beast’s delicious, shareable, and reasonably priced eats.
Sweet potatoes may not be the thing everyone reaches for on a night of drinking, but don’t miss their delectable flautas. “The sweet potato flautas are so surprisingly good,” Velazquez said. The sweet and savory and tender tuber is nestled in a corn tortilla and topped with crema, salsa, and cotija cheese; the flavors amplifying one another in gorgeous harmony.
Corazón fans like me will be happy to find that they can order similar dishes to the beloved spot, like burritos, tacos, and salads, but they’ll also find exciting new items – each dish living up to the Beast title.
“It’s a little more fun, a little more gutsy,” Velazquez explains of his dishes, like the smashburger taco. Velazquez is a fan of the popular burger, so he decided to create his own version using a prime blend of meats, melty cheese, tomatoes, green salsa, special sauce, and papitas (small, homemade french fries) layered generously onto a flour tortilla.
“When you bite into it, you really taste the burger and the taco at the same time,” he said with a grin that makes you want to pull up a barstool next to Ramon and dive right in.
His skills, honed cooking alongside his mother from the time that he was 7 years old, are undeniable in each dish. I was especially blown away by the depth of flavor in the plantains with mole. Topped with cotija cheese and crema, the mole sings an attention-grabbing solo with notes of chocolate and spice. This dish is really something special.
Available on weekends and on Wednesdays, Beast’s breakfast burritos deliver pure satisfaction. Loaded with scrambled eggs, cheese, and sauteed vegetables, plus bacon, brisket, or chorizo, there’s a version for everyone, and they’re an ideal beer buddy for the Sunday football crowd.
Every day of the week, Beast offers deals, such as Taco Tuesday and Torta Thursday, and the kind crew at M. Special, such as bartender Jared Swiggard, are happy to help you find a refreshing beverage to take your meal to the next level. I can vouch for the El Mero Mero (“the one and only”) Mexican lager. Its crisp and balanced flavor pairs perfectly with any dish. But just like the food menu, the beers are varied, plentiful and exciting, so in the true spirit of Beast — choose your own adventure. You won’t be disappointed.
Beast Taqueria is located inside M. Special, 634 State Street, beasttaqueria.com.