Santa Ynez Valley winemaker and farmer Keith Saarloos recently announced to his sizable Instagram following that he would start leading tours of his Ballard Canyon vineyard on Saturday mornings at 10 a.m. No charge; just direct message him on Instagram for the coordinates and to confirm the tour that week is on. When asked what inspired him to commit to this new weekly ritual, Keith said he wanted to throw the gates open and show people what goes into their vineyard operation after a friend gave him a hard time about charging $70 for a bottle of wine. As I would soon learn, Keith’s commitment to transparency and DIY work ethic filters into every part of the family business.
I joined the third iteration of his “Field Trip” on an unseasonably warm January Saturday. As we gathered at the base of the vineyard, he oriented us with facts and trivia, going back eons to provide the big-picture context of where we were standing and what makes Santa Barbara County so extraordinary — from its California statehood history and longtime role as a crossroads to the unique geography, be it the southern-facing east-west transverse mountain range responsible for the region’s nuanced microclimates or the surprisingly close proximity of the aquifer right beneath our feet. Keith chuckled as he qualified that I should fact-check everything he said because it was all information he’d absorbed from others. The overarching message was a sense of reverence for all the forces that combined over the centuries to make an extraordinary place ripe with potential to produce exceptional wines.
As we started walking along the rows, Keith shared that when his father bought the land in 1999, it was planted with apple trees. The first crop was a bust, and they couldn’t sell the apples. Upon receiving verbal commitments from neighboring winemakers who were willing to buy grapes, they decided to plant vineyards instead. Fast-forward to 2008, when Keith found himself broke and at a professional crossroads. His wife, Heather, encouraged him to try his hand at the wine thing — he was selling bottles of his own vintages out of the back of his truck at that point. So, he went all in and started the Saarloos and Sons winery.
Keith is quick to say he doesn’t know what he’s doing, but he’s clearly figured a thing or two out — and isn’t afraid to ask for help, make mistakes, or give credit to others. Farming is in his blood, and the Saarloos family creed, “Honor and prepare,” is emblazoned upon every vineyard sign. Legacy informs his farming ethos; he doesn’t want to push the vines beyond what they can handle so they have a long, productive future. “That’s the benefit of farming yourself; you see everything,” he says, proudly adding, “There are no junk corners on this vineyard.”
Along with the two people who help him farm their two vineyard locations, he’s making “micro-decisions” for every vine 365 days of the year. Over the course of 75 minutes walking among the vines, Keith pointed out idiosyncrasies of the land and described challenges overcome. He explained why and how he names certain vintages for different family members, whose faces appear on the label art. And he expressed his gratitude toward heroes like Brooks Firestone and everyone who has supported their family business along the way — like the Poor family, who were on the tour and took a photo by the row named for them.
“Families, not corporations” is what sets Santa Barbara wine country apart, according to Keith, and he’s honored that Saarloos and Sons wines have become a part of so many loyal customers’ and friends’ lives. “Wine is personal. It’s as analog as it comes.”
Follow Keith’s stories @saarloosandsons on Instagram and reserve a tasting at their Los Olivos tasting room at saarloosandsons.com.
