Discovering San Antonio

Exuberant South Texan City Is a Hub of Compelling Art, Culture, and Cuisine

Hotel Havana | Credit: Nick Simonite

Prior to visiting San Antonio in November, my limited knowledge of the Texan city was it being the site of the Alamo (credit to Pee-wee’s Big Adventure!), home court of the San Antonio Spurs, and the birthplace of Lucchese boots. I’m pleased to report it’s a vibrant, diverse, delicious city where arts and culture take center stage and warm, welcoming locals champion every homegrown success story. And it does not feel anything like a big city of nearly 1.5 million people, especially if you’re staying in the city center or one of the nearby neighborhoods.

My homebase was Hotel Havana, where the smell of Satya sandalwood incense greeted me upon arrival. Located in Museum Reach, a quieter downtown stretch along the River Walk, Hotel Havana is ideally situated for walking to most of the key downtown attractions and a short drive away to areas like the Pearl and Southtown. The boutique-style, 27-room historic hotel (circa 1914) has a stately Mediterranean Revival exterior with a tropical twist, thanks to a collection of robust palm trees. The interior design blends Mexican and Cuban influences through antique furnishings, vintage textiles, dark woods, lush reds, and moody lighting. My cozy room on the third floor had one of the most comfortable hotel beds I’ve ever slept in.

After getting checked in, I took a short Uber ride to San Antonio Museum of Art, which stays open late (7 p.m.) on Tuesday and Friday nights, giving me ample time to stretch my legs after a day of air travel as I explored the museum’s well-curated global collection. Conveniently, dinner that night was at Tre Trattoria, set in the same old Lone Star Brewery complex that houses the museum. Perched above the river, it was still warm enough to sit outside after sundown and I was treated very kindly by the staff, who encouraged me to try Chef Jason Dady’s decadent Cacio e Pepe deviled eggs to start my lovely Italian-accented feast. Back at Hotel Havana, I popped into Ocho Lounge to sip a nightcap while soaking up the twinkly atmosphere of the glass-enclosed riverside space. A separate super-dark, sexy bar is tucked downstairs from the restaurant, also directly accessible from the hotel elevator — it was on my agenda the following night.

San Antonio Museum of Art | Photo: Shannon Brooks
San Antonio Museum of Art, Altar | Photo: Shannon Brooks
San Antonio Museum of Art, Bridge | Photo: Shannon Brooks
San Antonio Museum of Art, Above | Photo: Shannon Brooks

The next day was dedicated to getting to know the historic Pearl, a revitalized and ever-evolving open-air complex built around the former 1883 San Antonio Brewery facility. Today, it’s an artsy district dedicated to local makers, independent retailers, and tons of amazing food and beverage operations. I started my morning at Local Coffee Founders and got the lay of the land with my latte in hand before settling in for breakfast at Full Goods Diner, where I had the most satisfying seasonal veggie frittata and cheesy hash browns. I walked off breakfast as I browsed the charming shops and took a stroll along a quiet stretch of the river. Before I knew it, it was time for lunch at La Gloria, a popular local eatery by Chef Johnny Hernandez, who has multiple revered restaurants in San Antonio. I had my first, long-awaited queso fundido fix here (heaven!) and sampled a few different ceviches.

San Antonio Botanic Garden | Photo: Shannon Brooks

I left the Pearl for another dose of art and culture: the first modern art museum in Texas, the impressive McNay Art Museum, set on the 25-acre estate of its founder Marion Koogler McNay. Between the manicured grounds dotted with sculptures, the estate’s meandering, art-filled wings, and the tranquil courtyard, I was surprised and delighted at every turn. The same can be said for my next stop, the 38-acre San Antonio Botanical Garden. I took a brief break back at Havana to refresh for my evening return to the Pearl, where I enjoyed a cocktail at the gorgeous Hotel Emma bar, Sternewirth, and moseyed over to the equally lovely Carriqui for an elegant dinner of fire-fueled South Texan cuisine.

My final full day was another ambitious one; I wanted to see as much as possible! I took an Uber to Southtown to get a feel for the creative hub known for its restaurants, boutiques, galleries, the grand homes of the King William Historic District, and the Blue Star Arts Complex. Then it was time for a tour of Mission San José, one of San Antonio’s three Spanish missions. Back downtown, I joined the buzzing lunch crowd at one of the popular outposts of La Panaderia, a bakery and café launched by the Cáceres brothers, who brought their mother’s pan dulce baking tradition from Mexico City to San Antonio in 2014, and quickly grew a loyal following. (I’m now among the fans of their tequila almond croissants!)

Then I ventured to the Alamo, just a few blocks away. The landmark was understandably packed with people (it’s not actually that big!) so I breezed through and made my way to the Briscoe Western Art Museum, where I had a little more breathing room. Here, the highlight for me was the temporary American Cowboys photography exhibit by Anouk Masson Krantz, which, in that small world way, happened to feature some local Santa Ynez Valley residents. From there, I walked down to the most well-known part of the River Walk to board a Go Rio Cruises narrated tour. Joined by a boat full of fellow tourists and Air Force basic-training grads and their families, it was fun to finally experience the River Walk from the water and see San Antonio from a different angle.

Appropriately, my final dinner was at Boudro’s, a fine dining classic on the River Walk. I had one last nightcap back at the vibey, candlelit Havana Bar, where the deejay was just getting started. I had a 7 a.m. train to Austin to catch in the morning, so I didn’t linger as long as I wanted to!

Travel Tips

I flew to San Antonio from SBA on Southwest with a short stop to change planes in Las Vegas. Amtrak’s Texas Eagle connects San Antonio to Austin for a mere $7, and the two cities make for the perfect doubleheader itinerary.

If you want to time your visit for when the town is especially lively, consider one of the major cultural festivals. Similar to Santa Barbara, San Antonio’s long-running annual Fiesta is one of the city’s signature events. The tradition dates back to 1891, when a group of local women honored those who perished in Battle of the Alamo with the “Battle of the Flowers Parade.” Over the decades, the community tradition bloomed into the 11-day citywide festival it is today. Fiesta San Antonio takes place April 18-28, 2024, and features multiple parades, entertainment, and culinary happenings.

Day of the Dead altar at Pearl | Photo: Shannon Brooks

I arrived on the heels of San Antonio’s Day of the Dead celebrations (the largest in the country) and got to see many of the colorful public altar installations still in place. Locals say the Día de la Muertos river parade (late October) is a phenomenal sight to behold, and there are multiple exhibits, happenings, and festivals around town, creating a robust entertainment lineup. Fall is also for foodies, with the annual Tasting Texas Food & Wine Festival produced in partnership with the James Beard Foundation set for November 8-10, 2024. Chefs from across Texas, the U.S., and Mexico come together in the “Culinary Capital of Texas” for four days of exquisite eats.

Learn more about all things San Antonio at visitsanantonio.com and book Hotel Havana at bunkhousehotels.com.