Refugio Ranch Barbareño

This red blend’s name, a reference to one of the Chumash dialects, hints at how the wine is a native expression of the Santa Ynez Valley. With 75 percent syrah and 25 percent petite syrah — at least in this vintage (the 2015 is sold out and the 2016 just released, and those percentages are slightly different) — is big and bold, hale and hearty. There’s a lot of French oak, but it’s very well integrated. Still, you have to like some tannins with your blueberry and boysenberry. It’s best to decant, or at least open the bottle an hour or so before consuming. That means Barbareño stands up to the most flavorful of meals — think Santa Maria tri-tip with salsa and pinquito beans — but it also works well with a parsley-mint-roasted garlic pesto and shrimp. A huge delight of a wine. See refugioranch.com.