That word hoagie (no, not sandwich or grinder or sub or wedge) should be a hint that this joint knows its Philly cheese steak sandwiches. Piled high on its toothsome roll, everything has that just-off-the-grill goodness and is slathered in a tomato sauce for extra zing. Also note: This will be the only time I ever recommend anything with white American cheese. But you don’t get more American than a Philly cheese steak; it’s very over-the-top-ness cries America. There are fries, too, that look/taste like they actually came from potatoes.

4•1•1

McMaster’s Steak & Hoagie, 910 Embarcadero del Norte, Isla Vista, 685-7010.

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